Like all projects a good clean start is necessary to have a sound platform to work from. Tiki is no exception, she is over 50 years old and in need of serious repair work and updating with modern materials and bonding agents. So let’s commence with a full strip out of all joinery, junk and the years of debris accumulated whilst sitting in the boatyard.
One of my main upgrades on Tiki is to strengthen the very basic ‘ribbed’ centreplate casing structure with glass/resin, and to encase the structure with Iroko side facings and new top board so it’s much safer when moving around the cockpit, especially for children and the elderly.
To get underway it’s necessary to prefit the 5-section JLJ floor in order to have a firm base to work from. You will note the grid style of construction, and in a good quality close-grained pine, unlike the existing floor which was just 2 long sections, very difficult to lift out and made of garden decking. These sections will be taken out, primed, and then painted with a non-slip application to the working surface.
With the floor in place I’m able to prefit the side facings and top board. To do this I need to align these ribs laterally so the side facings are even. There was little if any accuracy when they were bonded in this rib construction, so as is evident from the picture, a packer is required to get the structure level. A fiddly procedure but worked out well resulting in a totally enclosed centreboard case, and a very smart appearance with the Iroko side, end and top board.
Before attempting to clean the inside of the cockpit I will pre fit the JLJ main mast thwart, Mizen mast/rudder step and engine bracket. It’s this latter piece that gives away her approximate year of building.
Why I mentioned this engine mounting board is that it is just a plain Teak board bolted directly on to the stern moulding. It didn’t have the wedge-shaped blocks attached to the back of the bracket to angle the engine leg down and forward, and to allow the leg of a long-shaft engine to clear the transom of the boat. The reason being, these very early Luggers were built to take the British Seagull 2-stroke engine, so by my reckoning it’s dated at about 1967/8.
The only piece of joinery/wood I’m reusing is the original Teak Gunwale capping rail. It’s in very good condition and has only been sanded back a couple of times, hence its full thickness and width. The biggest issue these early capping rails had was that they were fabricated like a sandwich on the edge of the boat out of two strips, one with a rebate to take the upstand Gunwhale edge and the other to bond to it to form the groove. An extremely poor and inaccurate method of manufacture, and consecutively in places this rail has started to delaminated from its opposing strip. It’s not too severe but I will rectify this with strengthening and re bonding.
The more practical, stronger and cost effective method is to machine the capping rail out of solid Iroko off the boat, machine the groove on the spindle moulder, and for the length produce a long 450 mm scarf joint towards the aft of the boat where there is least curvature. You will find this on the JLJ ‘How to Do It’ page. A far better method and a much more professional job.
Another pre-finishing task completed and awaiting the Danish Oil treatment later after the spray finishing of the hull is completed.
My approach and philosophy is to do as much of the prefitting, repairs and upgrades before you get the boat cleaned ready for the spray work. It’s then just a straightforward task of refitting and not to have alterations or work to be done.
Yet another prefit, a new JLJ transom board from stock. They can be tricky to fit since originally it would have been slid into its position from the top before the Gunwhale caping rails were fitted. The length on the inside is great than the outside opening, so as a retro fit they have to be sprung into place. Do read my recent response to Michel at Drascombe Nederland who had initial issues with fitting one of our JLJ transom boards to a clients Longboat Cruiser on the ‘Other side of the pond’. With a short email back to him on the technique it was all resolved.
Final task before a thorough clean and pressure wash is to check out what looks like an attempt to replace the centre plate pivot pin. What gave it away was the large diameter of the end of the pivot pin and nuts outside the casing. The slot in the centre plate is just 15 mm, so a pivot pin of 12 mm is sufficient. The bolt fitted was 15mm itself and large nuts with just a sealant applied between the surfaces and bolt face. Not good!
These pictures indicate the existing plates and large bolt, and behind the JLJ strengthening plates and bolt. It’s not just a matter of putting two plates either side of the casing; it’s important that these plates rest on the cockpit floor / Keelband rail to support the plates and consequently fully support the pivot pin, since there is no strength in the 4/5 mm of glass fibre walls of the casing. This was one of many very poor construction methods and practices carried out in their development and construction.
Not surprisingly the existing centre plate was not captured by the pivot pin, it’s angled slot had completely rotted. The centre plate just lifted out from the top with ease, she would never have taken to the water safely, sadly.
The glass/resin repair work to the pivot pin and strengthening plates will follow in a later blog along with other glassing repairs.
With a good day focussed for tomorrow I’ll be in the cockpit giving her a thorough degrease and power wash, ready for the next chapter in this memorable rebuild of Lugger Tiki.