With all the pre-fitting of new joinery, the Keelband was the last task which I jumped forward to document so there was continuity for the complete process. I must illustrate the last 2 components that are to be replaced.
This is the existing centre plate. Looking at its advanced decay it’s the original I’m presuming. The reason again I’m thinking they had fitted a much large pivot pin to support the centre plate was probably in the knowledge that the slot in the plate had rotted and enlarged. Next to it is our JLJ centre plate, which I will fit out in the Ionian when she is launched, as it’s a much easier process done in shallow water.
The second component is the original rudder, mild steel and possibly galvanised when made, but now badly corroded and has had some form of repainting done to it. It has to go in the skip. Next to it is the same preferred style of solid blade rudder made for JLJ in Wales. I will re-use the original rudder shaft knuckle. Due to an electrolytic reaction that occurs between the two elements, that is the Zinc from the galvanising and the bronze knuckle head it took some persuading to come off the old shaft, however a heat gun solved the problem.
Here it is, all cleaned and fitted to the new JLJ rudder, ready for many years of service./
As I documented on week 4 I, had the hull turned over for the hull repairs and prepping ready for the spray paint finishing . This has been done with an orbital sander, and hand sanding blocks for the difficult-to-reach areas.
Common issues found extensively in the manufacture of the glass fibre shells of both deck and hull, ‘air voids’ in the gel coat, especially on the ‘Chime’ edges and sharp corners of the mould.
Using an epoxy filling compound to build up this void one is able then to recreate the original mould shape and it also seals the exposed matting underneath. This work now creates a good finish to the curvature of the ‘Chime’ of the hull.
On the subject of repair work before contemplating starting painting, an area rarely mentioned is the joining of the 2 moulds, the hull and deck below the waterline. This is the cut-out which creates the engine well. The moulds were not at all accurate so when the two sections came together the meet was not good, and this is relevant when it’s below the waterline. On the gunwale rail it’s the same, but is hidden within the capping section. This illustration at the bottom of the well just above the keel band where the 2 moulds come together, a powder filler has been added to make up the deficiency. The last picture shows a much great gap in the moulds higher up the side of the well.
I start by raking out this old filler, cleaning with a spirit thinners before bonding with West Resin and an epoxy filling compound. It’s all work that has to be taken care of before one can start to spray paint the boat. This is why it becomes a re-build as opposed to a refurb job.
A clean start, upgrading the structure with technically better materials, replacing of all joinery and fittings and adding features, in my case for chartering out in the South Ionian Sea: swimming ladders, biminis and far superior quality sails to cope with the prevailing Mediterranean climate.
This is the rewarding result after all the hours of prep work, taping up the gunwale rails and applying the filler priming coats. This is a very high build primer/filler used extensively in the marine and automotive industry and so good as a flexible key onto the gel coat. It will have 3 coats in a ‘wet on wet’ configuration so each coat is applied just as the previous coat is still tacky and this will ensure a very high build bond. When cured it’s all prepped back with 240 paper and discs followed by a Scotchbrite pad. With a vacuum off and a final going over with a ‘Tack cloth’ it’s ready for the white finished colour.
All these paints are a 2-part catalysed material which will cure within an hour, allowing further coats to be applied. All complete in its lovely new colour of white, and time to tape up the waterline ready for the application of the antifoul primer. This is roller-applied and given 3 coats and will form the basis of all one’s future antifoul applications.
Don’t skimp on the quality of materials you use, a good product will be advantageous and give a long term benefit. This finish will give few problems when adding the final antifoul coats before going into the water.
Next is to get her back over and onto its trailer, with the help of my 3 strong young neighbours, 4 old tyres and a couple of dust sheets to protect the finished hull.
Yet another masking up process to do to protect the finished paintwork to the hull.
It’s a tricky job spraying the inside of the cockpit. You need to get all the paints ready mixed because there is little time between coats, and one’s escape route out of the boat is not easy. I’m fortunate that I have a large and heavy table sat alongside which I can step onto, but one has to be nimble.
All done, with a change of colour from the standard Duck Egg blue to Manilla. This colour is consistent with all my Dragon Drascombe boats.
The final process is to re-mask the deck and cockpit for the spraying of the top plank colour, a striking full-bodied red. She is now complete after all these time-consuming spray processes, with her new graphics applied and a total transformation from a 50 plus year old, very neglected and poorly maintained craft when she was brought back to Wales 6 weeks ago. She is now looking to a new life with Dragon Drascombe in the South Ionian Sea.
Coming up next after the Christmas break will be the last of the fibreglass issues on the hull floor to seal the penetrating Keelband screws followed by the painting out of the hatch interiors, floor and Lazarette storage compartment. So keep watching these blogs as we get closer to having her total rebuild and fitting out completed in late January.