It’s getting quite exciting now that I’m into Week 7 of working on Tiki. With the exception of a Christmas break and a few days away on other commitments, it’s been full on with just myself working on the project.
There are only 13 weeks to go before we leave Wales for the long overland drive down to the Ionian Sea and a launch which will start Tiki’s inaugural charter life with Dragon Drascombe.
Martin, my pal and part time colleague who runs the mail order side of Just Lugger Joinery&more when I’m away in the summer, took a deep breath and commented when he saw the state she started on day one of this rebuild “That’s certainly one heck of project you have got yourself into for this coming winter”. Yes, looking back it did appear a daunting task ahead, but as it’s my twelfth rebuild and with all the acquired knowledge and experience of producing the joinery and parts for Just Lugger Joinery&more, it is very manageable.
I’m returning briefly to the laminating of the engine mounting bracket illustrated in this picture.
I am still convinced that this style of engine bracket and stern deck moulding needs a ‘re-think’. these 4-stroke engines are heavy, and with the power thrust they produce there still remains a weakness in its application. But we are were we are for now, and my recommendations are to replace ones existing bracket with a thicker laminated unit and to ‘beef up’ the moulding that it is attached to with my 12 mm marine ply sections as illustrated in my blog week 6.
Moving on to the laminating process, I’m using the existing Teak board that came off Tiki at a just under 30 mm in thickness. This teak board was in good physical condition, no splits or major defects, so by re-machining it to 21 mm then choosing a section of Iroko from my stock at 21 mm they are laminated face to face using West Resin as a bonding agent. It’s now ‘Bomb Proof’. Once made up and left to cure overnight it’s ready for reshaping and moulding.
Moving on I can now use the original shape of the Teak section to create the new thicker shape and mould all edges and produce the existing holes through the slab for the fitting bolts. This results in a completed engine bracket along with its JLJ fitting kit.
On one’s own it can be a little tricky to fit the bracket. I start with aligning the first bolt, which will support the bracket. Then move across to the second top bolt, use a long flat blade 10 mm drill bit to locate or open out the existing hole in the stern moulding, and the new hole through the added ply packer.
Once the two top long bolts are in place the lower ones are straightforward and it’s a question then of squeezing into the Lazarette, in the case of the MK2 and 3 to fit the large washers and nuts. For the MK1 one just needs long arms to reach in from the top of the deck and fit these nuts and washers.
It’s so important to have these nuts well tightened because with the vibration and weight of the engine you do not want the bracket to get loose and cause the bolts to enlarge the holes in the glass fibre mould. I keep an eye on these holding bolts on a regular basis, tweaking them up where necessary; it’s prudent advice.
A fitting task that I did not cover in Week 6 was the fitting of the port side centre plate casing facia that holds the hauling rope jammer to the ribs of the centre plate structure. With the pressure on this jammer it cannot be held with just a screw into the Iroko facia, but has to be a 6 mm machine screw onto a captured nut at the back of the rib structure. It’s much easier on the Mk 2 & 3 as it can be accessed via the bilge pump opening.
With the hole through the rib done and a ‘captured’ nut in place behind the rib I’m able to present the port side facia complete with the jamming cleat to it and tighten. The remainder of the fittings are 30 mm brass heavy gauge screws, and they only hold the facias in place.
My following illustrations show the following pieces of joinery in place.
The Mizen step/rudder guide in place. It is noted that I have reverted to using the original design of this piece, it being to have a full rudder guide made of black polycarbonate and no bronze rudder guide.
The forward main mast Thwart complete with our freshly turned belay pins for rope storage use only. The anchor pad is forward and this will be seen again in week 8 blog complete with its anchor, chain and warp with storage bag in place.
It’s time now to start fitting accessories etc. This is a stern kedge anchor chain and warp bag.
The cockpit now has 2 storage bags fitted, one each side. It is now noted that the Lazarette deck seat lids can be finally fitted with their location studs.
Finally I’m able to do the fitting of the stern transom board. Having been pre-fitted, its a straightforward task and since it has had well over 15 ‘Oil treatment’ procedures it’s important it fits easily, and so it does with all the 6 heavy gauge screws tightened.
While in this area I have taken from the JLJ stock a newly made and varnished Bumpkin with a 4mm whipping as a protective collar applied. It now needs to be pre-fitted for size, and the transom hole lightly ‘tweaked’ to allow a good secure fit with no play for the Bumpkin to move from side to side, yet to be able to fit and retrieve the Bumpkin from an inboard position. I have used a wood rasp to ‘tweak’ the corners and edges of this hole. They will be re-oiled over the next few days.
Yes, the Bumpkin is a good secure fit within the transom board yet it has a good slide movement from an inboard position.
To complete the movement the fairlead eye for the Mizen sheet clears the transom access hole. Two good jobs completed.
Looking now to Week 8, I will be concentrating on the fitting of the JLJ cockpit side hatches and offering advice and tips how this procedure is achieved, given the irregular shape of the cockpit side walls.
These made-up framed hatches with their catches fitted make so much difference to the appearance of the boat and they become safe and secure storage areas.
Please keep accessing the website and follow the rebuild of Tiki. The hull will be completed as planned by 20 January, followed by 2 weeks of work on the main and Mizen masts which I’m restoring. The Gaff was an old short and much patched up Mk1 gaff so this has been added to my firewood bin.