Dragon Drascombe

Lugger Sailing in the Greek Ionian

Relax

Caleb & family

Worth the wait…

I originally booked our holiday with Phil back in 2019 but of course the pandemic got in the way and so, come 2022, it was a matter of third time lucky – and we certainly did feel lucky enjoying our week in Lefkas.

As a keen sailor but with a family reserving their judgement (at least at the outset) it was a perfect arrangement – having full use of a boat but not being tied to it. The apartment at Geni had all we needed, set in lovely gardens with a view of mountains in the distance, the pool in the foreground and Vilho bay (and our boat) in between. Our host, Sandra, and her family could not have been more accommodating.

Ellie, the Drascombe Lugger allocated to us for the week, was immaculately prepared and Phil was a constant source of good advice and support, including regular weather forecast updates. We found her easy to sail and with a reliable engine when needed. What’s more, she drew heads at every turn. We were applauded by one passing sailor and filmed by passengers aboard a colossal superyacht.

We used the boat every single day of the holiday, discovering countless secluded, sometimes even deserted, beaches. Our two boys (and us!) enjoyed jumping from the boat into the clear blue water of the Ionian. We also made a couple of trips across to Meganisi. On one we explored the old town of Spartochori and the bays to its East. On the other occasion we visited a spectacular cave on the West coast, in which we were able to anchor Ellie and have a swim. An unforgettable experience.

The lugger was our transport for the week and it was a joy to be car free. She took us across the bay when we needed to visit the supermarket and in the evening to visit our favourite tavernas. All in all it was a perfect holiday, with relaxation and adventure in equal measure in beautiful surroundings.

Paul & family

Just come back from a fab trip with the family, care of Dragon Drascombe. Our main host, Phil Osborne, who seemed to have boundless energy, was always on hand to offer advice on sailing expeditions, local weather forecasts and places to eat and grab provisions whilst still keeping tabs on all his other guests.

We’ve done a few flotilla trips in Greece on larger yachts but as a family we’re completely won over by what Phil offers. The Drascombe Lugger can easily be pulled up onto most beaches which the bigger yachts can’t reach, and with the simple to rig bimini we can still hide from the midday sun whilst motoring along to find another hidden cove. We had many admiring glances and a few more vocal ‘we love your boat’ shouts from distant yachts.

On the more stormy evenings we were very grateful we weren’t on a bouncy charter boat but could feel more secure sleeping on terra firma in the air-conditioned accommodation at Gialos apartments above Costa’s Taverna, who was a very cheery host and also helping us to moor on the restaurant pontoon at the end of each day.

A very diverse holiday which can cater for the very active among us or those who just want a Greek escape. We’ll definitely be back.

Colin & Lizzie

Four go Luggering in Greece

Two weeks sailing in the sunshine – we couldn’t wait! After a disappointingly wet Scottish Spring, we were eagerly anticipating blue skies, gentle winds, warm sunshine and cold beer. This was to be an opportunity to explore Greece from the sea rather than a hot and cramped tour bus. And it turned out to be all that plus a lot more!

A week in Geni apartments on Lefkada, then a week in Frikes on Ithaca was the plan. We were a band of four friends when we set out: Colin and Lizzie from the west coast of Scotland and Chris and Janey from the east coast. But on arrival we teamed up with another couple, Tim and Judith from the West Country, and became six for the first week.

The ‘fleet’ at review in Geni

After a short familiarisation under Phil’s watchful eye, it was off out of Vliho Bay to explore the area to the south; to Madouri, Meganisi, Desimi, and any little cove or bay that looked good for a swim and a snooze. Geni proved to be a great base to relax and cool off in the pool, and Gialos Taverna, just a short walk away, an ideal spot to plan the next day’s adventure.

Rehydrating in Spilia Taverna in Spartachori
All neatly lined up at Gialos Taverna

All too quickly, the first week was over and we said a sad goodbye to Tim and Judith and headed south to the island of Ithica and the small port of Frikes. And what a charming spot it turned out to be. The apartments were excellent (and right over an ice cream shop!) with a selection of great bars and tavernas just a short step away.

Ellie heading south to our new base on Ithica.
Sunrise from the apartment in Frikes.
A warm balmy evening in Frikes.

And it was to be another glorious week spent exploring the islands to the north and the south, including a couple of trips to the lovely little port of Kioni, just a short sail to the south of Frikes. Sailing, snoozing, swimming – ‘no G!’

Lunch and a swim in a little cove north of Frikes
The picturesque village of Kioni

Saturday came round all too quickly, and we headed north back to Geni on our final day of sailing. It was with some sadness that we stepped ashore for the last time and said goodbye to these trusty little boats. Plenty of impressively large yachts had motored and sailed past us over the 2 weeks but these little Luggers always drew a cheery wave and a friendly compliment and were easily the best and most relaxing way to see Greece from the sea. You have got to give it a go!

Dave & Andy

Dave and I went early in the season this year, we have been a few times before but last year July was just too hot for us.

This year we stayed at the Iris Hotel Apartments. Our room was conveniently close to the bar and the two pools, and we were impressed by the cleanliness of the room and the very friendly staff. The food is pretty good pub grub and we had the huge advantage of our Lugger pulled up on the beach just a dozen yards from our room.

Phil gave us the Lugger Angie with the new sail rig which we christened ‘The Ozzie’ rig.

The rig boasted a new Genoa foresail, a topsail with brailing line but joined with a batten to effectively form a single, bigger mainsail. The mizzen also featured a topsail with brailing but again with the batten to work as a single sail. The result was a much faster boat, very good performance in light airs and I believe closer winded that the conventional rig. The brailing lines were essential to spill wind when striking the sails, making the process as simple and quick as the standard Drascombe Lugger rig.

Dave enjoyed a great beat to windward whilst I loved the downwind performance of the new rig.

It goes without saying that Phil’s attention to detail is unmatched – the boats are very well prepared with all the kit you will need including a picnic hamper. He welcomes you with a delicious lunch at Gialos Taverna and provides a thorough briefing for the boat.

Phil has a number of Luggers with different rigs, all have good engines so I would recommend this type of day sailing in this fabulous place to anyone, no matter what their experience.

Gareth & Lisa

A really enjoyable two weeks at Geni. The joy of having a boat (Clara) was exploring small sheltered bays which were not accessible by foot. We both loved swimming from the boat and the wonderful sensation of the sun on your face as you swam in beautiful turquoise water.  May is an excellent time to visit as the spring flowers are out and people’s lemons trees are laden with fruit.  A cycle trip up into the hills was an opportunity to see more of the interior and to get away off the beaten track.

We stayed at George Studios, the family was really friendly and kind – we almost got a full wave from the baby grand daughter by the end of our stay.

Some of the things that we did included:

  • Sailing to Fteri Bay on the mainland (twice). The second time we continued up to Georios Castle and back down past Lygia. Fteri Bay was excellent for swimming.
  • Spartochori for lunch. Brilliant to have Clara (the Drascombe Lugger) moored right next to our table. Bay outside the taverna is also good for swimming.
  • Several attempts to go down past Abelakia bay. Finally got beyond the light at Cape Elia.
  • Walking to the waterfalls at Nidri – wish we had taken our swim gear – lovely pool underneath the waterfall!
  • Sailed and anchored at Desimi bay. Also walked and cycled to this beach multiple times from Geni. Lovely beach and a quaint taverna on the beach.
  • Tried sailing to Papanikolis Cave, but the channel was very lumpy as we reached the line with Cape Lougi, so we turned round and sailed back up.
  • We walked up to the radio mast on the ridge above Geni. Wonderful views of Skorpios, Skorpidi, etc. Also great for flowers and butterflies!
  • Had hired bikes for two days. Cycled to Sivros. Wonderful views – would love to come back on a cycle tour of Lefkada and the islands. Also tried to cycle to the Monastery at Taxiarches, but it was just too hot and turned back part way.
  • Our favourite swimming bay for anchored swimming from the boat was Fraxia Bay.

Many thanks to Phil (and Benjy) for making it such a great trip, and for making suggestions of what to see.

Peter & Ed

So — it took a while since first booking the Lugger Holiday to actually get to Geni Gardens (you all know why). Phil kept in touch and guided us through the re scheduling – pretty smooth really.

My brother Ed and I have – over the last 60 years sailed and owned a variety of sailing boats from Arab Dhows in Bahrain to 10 days ‘before the mast ‘ in the 150 ft Sir Winston Churchill in mid-Atlantic. However – ‘Clara’ was very different – an old (but in beautiful condition) Drascombe Lugger rebuilt by Phil – the master Lugger shipwright.

I was thinking of buying a Lugger but why not try one out first – in sunny Greece ! As my photos show Geni Gardens was the perfect base for our sailing – our host Franz and his wife Poldi were great, as was the coffee and spinach pasty each morning on the terrace. There is so much I could say – it was quite an experience to see this quiet, fairly remote area of Greece, devoted to boats and sailing.

Preveza airport is small but modern and the organised pick up was excellent even in the dark at 11pm – Phil was at Geni to welcome us with beer in the fridge and fresh bread etc. The following morning we quickly organised the coffee and pasty to have each morning on the terrace overlooking the bay and just as we were enjoying the fantastic views – over came Phil in his tender. He introduced us to Clara our Lugger for the next ten days. Phil gave us great instruction in the art of Lugger sailing – we both listened – watched and did! Ed and I both thought we could get on with this trusty little boat – but we took another day on our own in the bay to really get the feel of her – then we were off !

After visiting Meganissi and Sparti plus other bays and anchorages we really just wanted to sail and see what could be done with this iconic Lugger. Over the next few days we took our time – prepared well – organised our sailing roles – Ed has bad knees but is great on the tiller – I am very agile and can leap around tweaking and pulling anything that improves performance – we wanted to sail – not motor sailor and not just on a beam reach!

It took patience but we got as much as we felt possible from this great little sailer – a very safe boat. We studied our weather apps and planned our sailing course to suit the wind – even overtaking much larger yachts trying to follow our course.

By the end of the ten days we felt very comfortable with Clara and used her many times a day as a taxi from one side of the bay to the other visiting tavernas, shops and sightseeing trips.

It was also great to get to know Phil (Drascombe Phil as we called him) and see his boatyard with all the Luggers and the work he was doing on them. I don’t really know how he does so much – especially the drive down towing Luggers.