After a two year gap, and rather damp Scottish spring, it was so good for the four of us to be back in the dazzling blue of the Ionian again in these beautiful trusty wee boats.
It was great to be greeted by Phil, five large beers appearing like magic, followed by very welcome Greek mezze, while we caught up on the Drascombe gossip, and reviewed our passage plans. The weariness from our redeye flight soon vanished.
There on the beach behind us were Annie B and Clara both looking very ship-shape, and ready for our next adventure together. (A reunion for Liz and Colin who sailed in Clara in 2022, but a new encounter for me and Janey). The care that Phil takes in restoring and maintaining these luggers was very evident.
We were to be taking our own luggage to Meganisi and on to Kalamos, so had packed light, but Phil kindly provided extra waterproof bags, and we had no concern getting our gear tucked away on board.
We approached our respective outboard engines ready for the usual wrestling match, but after a stern word or two they submitted, and decided to behave. Pushing back and reversing into the breeze and then a wave to Phil and away!
Our crossing to Meganisi was to be mostly under engine, but there was sufficient wind to tempt us into get sails up for a bit. Our port was Spilia at Spartakhori, and we arrived early evening with a bit of brisk chop from the onshore breeze, and got some welcome local help picking up the lazy lines. The boats were bouncing a bit, but local worthy Steve helped us set the right amount of slack on the bow to set the boats well back from the hard after unloading. His initial “grumpy suspicious” facade soon mellowed!
A prearranged taxi ride took us up above Spartakhori village to Mesogi villa, which proved to be very good – newly built, clean, well equipped and spacious, with a sea view over a maturing garden filled with colour and butterflies.
The walk through the village and down to Spilia the next morning was lovely, and we were relieved to find the Luggers unscathed and secure. We motored out and explored the bays and beaches of northern Meganisi, sunning and swimming before making the most of the afternoon wind back across the bay. We then enjoyed a very welcome beer at Spilia, and a great meal at Taverna Lakis in the upper part of the village.
A passage up the Meganisi channel to reach the Papanicolis cave the next day was exciting, but foiled by an increasingly uncomfortable swell and wind right on the nose. We imagined the cave entrance itself might be surging and difficult to access, so we agreed to turn and run. The downward leg was much more comfortable, and another beautiful sheltered bay was located for swimming.
Leaving Spartakhori with our luggage, we rafted up alongside Stavros taverna in Vathi for lunch, followed by shopping and ice cream. Our next destination was Episkopi on Kalamos. The crossing was sunny and with light wind and 7NM to go, we motor sailed most of the way, then prepared for our arrival in Episkopi. The afternoon breeze was fresh, and the beach we had planned to anchor off was looking a bit exposed, so we sneaked into the tiny harbour and picked up a free lazy line. The advantage of cruising at this time of the year – quiet!
Shouldering our packs, we scrunched along the pebbly beach to find our next accommodation. A few yards up a shady lane, a hedge of jasmine filling the air with heady scent, we found rather more basic, but still very “characterful” stone built cottages.
We had the delightful problem of having no choice but the Varka family restaurant for our next three evenings, but we coped remarkably well! Wonderful food, and watching the sun go down each night over distant Lefkada, from a rustic table right on the beach…..
The lovely weather continued, and we explored the northern coast of Kalamos and crossed over to cruise by Mytikas on the mainland. The steep heavily wooded slopes of Kalamos provide a very different background to Meganisi, and we found some great spots to swim.
We packed up our picnic, and loaded up for our return passage to Geni, stopping off at the Fanari lighthouse beach again for a picnic and a last swim. We made the most of the last leg, splitting our tiny flotilla to pass either side of Skorpios, beating into a brisk breeze, before the final turn around the Agia Kiriaki chapel, and into the bay and up to Gialos bar to meet Phil.
A wonderful week. We felt we had packed a lot of sailing into a few days, and still had time to chill, and we would definitely recommend exploring this part of the Ionian – so much is accessible in these lovely little boats.
